Spoiled Tour

Feb 25 – March 2, 2024


This year we decided to do a tour of the spoil islands around Sebastian Inlet.  The spoil islands were formed when the Indian River/Intracoastal was dredged for boat traffic.  There are groups that help maintain the islands and some are open to exploring and camping.  Others are protected for birds to roost on.  We researched the maps on-line and came up with a loose plan.

 

 

 

 

Location of Trip

 

 

 

 

 

Paddlers:  Stew, Dave, Sam

 

Sea Kayaks  Current Designs Solstice, CD Solstice, QCC 500 – same order as paddlers

 

Trip Conditions:  Temps mostly mid 70s daytime; nights low to mid 60s.  No rain!  The nights felt a little muggy and too warm at times for sleeping bags.  We were surprised to find little to no mosquitoes at our campsites.

 

Meals:  We each brought our own meals – everything from canned soup, ramen noodles, Knorr pasta dinners, MRIs and packaged chicken/tuna.  Power bars, snacks, bagels, and peanut butter for lunch; coffee, oatmeal, granola and fruit cups for breakfast

 

Snacks:  nutrition bars, beef jerky, oranges.

 

Water:  We each had a gallon for each day.  Some in 16.9 oz bottles, some gallon containers.

 

Beer:  Yes.  We had a dry bag attached to the top back of Dave’s kayak that supported an IPA 12 pack.  Stew also had a bunch stowed in his kayak.  Of course, Sam brought some too.

 

 

From Indian River Lagoon Project  website:

 

Indian River Quick Facts and Statistics

·         Indian River spans across 5 Florida East Coast counties: Brevard, Indian River, St. Lucie, Martin, and Palm Beach County. It is bounded on the west by the Florida mainland and on the east by a chain of beach barrier islands.

·         Indian River was formerly named Ais River, after the indigenous people inhabiting its shores.

·         The 121 mile long Indian River is the largest lagoon in the Indian River Lagoon National Estuary.

·         Indian River averages 4ft in depth with large shallow flats less than 2ft deep. Man-made channels, canals, and marina basins are dredged much deeper.

·         The Intracoastal Waterway, a national navigational channel through the entire Indian River estuary, is maintained at a 10-12ft depth.

·         In spite of its name, the Indian River is not an actual river with a directional current, but a still water lagoon where the water's movement is from wind and some minor tidal influence near the inlets.[1]

·         Indian River lagoon has brackish water containing saltwater from ocean inlets and freshwater fed from rivers, creeks, and canals.

·         Saltwater enters the Indian River lagoon through four Atlantic Ocean inlets including Sebastian, Ft. Pierce, Jupiter, and Palm Beach inlets.

·         Freshwater river tributaries include Eau Gallie, St. Sebastian, St. Lucie, and Loxahatchee Rivers

·         Freshwater creek tributaries include Turnbull, Addison, Crane, Turkey Creek, Goat, Kid, Trout, Crawford, and Taylor Creeks.

 

 

These are some maps (there are more) of the spoil islands in the area.  Green islands allow camping.  We chose BC44A (just above the map – I didn’t print since it was next island up), IR3, IR14, IR25 and Joe Earman Island Park (didn’t print anything south of “IR” island map since we had it on GPS).  We had the maps so we could see which islands allowed camping and make choices as we passed them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Loading up

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Here we go!

 

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Dave and Stew

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Campsite on BC44A

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Moonrise

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Day 1 – 8 miles, Feb 25, 2024

 

 

Stew and Dave arrived at Sebastian Inlet State Park around noon.  We unloaded our vehicle and packed our kayaks.  The first day - driving up and loading kayaks is usually a little hectic.  Sam will be joining us on Day 5.

 

 

 

 

 

 

We paddled north along the east side of the Indian River and saw lots of fish, dolphin, and birds.  Stew saw a school of some very large black drum.  It was getting a little windy but not bad and we had a good leisurely paddle to BC44B which was our intended campsite.

 

 

 

We paddled around the island and got out to explore and look for a good place to camp.  It was okay and had a nice bluff where Dave had camped some 15 years ago with Jack and Sam.  We decided to check out the island right next to it, BC44A.  We saw a nice campsite and immediately said “this is it!”

 

We had brought subs for dinner like we did last trip – that makes the first day/night more relaxing knowing we don’t have to worry about fixing dinner.  Tents set up quickly and we gathered some firewood.  Good paddle today.

 

 

 

We met a group of younger guys in their mid-thirties who get together once a year and apparently drink – a lot.  They had a pontoon boat and said it took them 6 trips to get all their stuff to the island.  They did have a lot of stuff – including beer and hamburgers which they shared with us.  I think it was one of my favorite burgers ever - even after eating my sub,

 

A person standing in front of a table

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Then some of us played whiskey pong – beer pong but drinking whiskey instead of beer.  They had a big ground set with extra-large ping-pong balls.  Luckily, my partner and I won and I only had to take two shots.  Can’t remember if they said it or we did, but we were the “coolest old guys” they’ve met!  Alcohol may have played a role in that observation.

 

 

 

 

We settled down and had a nice night.  No bugs.  The moonrise was spectacular and dolphin visited throughout the night.   We could hear them blowing air and splashing as they searched for food.  I also think they knew we were there and just came by to check us out.

 

 

 

 

 

Day 2 – 9 miles, Feb 26, 2024

 

Knowing we have only 9 miles to paddle today there was no rush to get up.  We both are early risers anyway and were up around 6 am.  Made coffee and ate breakfast.  Watching the sunrise is always a delight.

 

 

 

Stew tried a few casts without any luck and the dolphin were all around searching for and getting food.  We would see fish explode out of the water as the dolphin approached.  We leisurely pack up our tents and load up our kayaks for the day’s paddle.

 

 

 

Today we are going to IR3 which is close to the west shore and easy paddling distance to Captain Hiram’s Resort which has a nice restaurant we plan to eat lunch at.  This excites us because eating out when on a camping trip is such a treat.  I think we were paddling faster with the anticipation!

 

 

 

This area tends to get windy in the afternoons and we are very pleased to have a few hours of smoother water in the morning.  We see lots of birds – especially ospreys and pelicans.  

 

 

 

 

 

We make good time and arrive at our destination spoil island IR3 fairly early – just after noon.  We explore, looking for best camp spot and see there are lots of places but there is a substantial tent in probably the best spot.  It looks like someone is living there on pretty much a permanent basis.

 

 

 

 

We decide to camp furthest away from their site – not that we felt threatened or unsafe, but just to give them room.  Later, we see two men with long beards and gray hair paddle a canoe to shore and then only one returned.  We guess it was the people from the tent.

 

 

 

 

We traversed a very shallow sandbar to get into a lagoon that the island surrounds and found a decent campsite.  Unloaded and put up our tents then set out to explore more of the island.

 

 

 

 

We walked around to the northern tip (avoided going in the direction of the tent we saw) and through an area that had lots of trees and birds in them – mostly pelicans.  You can really smell that there is a colony of pelicans around.  There were also a few osprey nests on top of some tall Australian pines and they called out as we went by.

 

 

 

 

There are several derelict boats on the island and they kind of look cool.  One still had some nice stainless-steel rigging that we were surprised no one had salvaged.  A guy on a pontoon boat pulled up and we talked to him a while.  He recommended some spots we should visit while on our paddle.

 

 

 

 

 

Around 4 pm we decide it is time to go get dinner.  We paddle just under a half-mile to Captain Hiram’s Resort and take a scenic route under the docks.  We went under a place (Squid Lips I think) and smelled some BBQ.  We almost couldn’t take it and looked for a place to stop but didn’t see anywhere we could safely store the kayaks if we went to that restaurant.  It is out over the water on a dock.  So, we continue to Captain Hiram’s and sit in a structure that is built to look like a boat.  I had some of the best fish and chips I have ever had there.

 

Our kayaks viewed from restaurant

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After dinner we paddled back to camp and tried our luck at fishing as the sun was getting low on the horizon.  No fish but it gave us something to do.  We were feeling pretty tired and settled into our tents before 8 pm.  Slept well and we could hear all the city noise since we were so close to shore, but it wasn’t bad.

 

 

Stew fishing as the sun rises

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Calm waters in the morning

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Spoil Island sign – if you see this sign, the island is designated for recreation/camping.  Curiously there are no island designations (you are here) on these signs

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Island IR3 campsite

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Two tents in the woods

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We saw many derelict boats.  This one is on IR3A boat on the beach

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Sunset from island IR3

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Day 3 – 15 miles, Feb 27, 2024

 

 

Today our destination is Joe Earman Island Park – about 13 miles and will be our longest day.  Again, we get up leisurely since we have plenty of time to paddle that distance.  Really nice with little wind in the morning making the water smooth and even glassy in some areas.

 

 

 

 

We’re off by 8:30 am and we head south and try to keep track of the spoil islands with our rustic maps.  We did okay but didn’t match some of the island designations correctly.  A basic GPS was used to help get us to our destinations but we were pretty confident we could find it from studying the maps and Google Maps when we were home.

 

 

 

 

We slowed and stopped at some islands to get an idea of where we may want to camp on our return trip.  Made a mental note for IR10 (we learn later it was IR9A) to camp there for night number four.  Also made some rest stops on sandbars that most of the island have.  Some sandbars extend pretty far from the islands and even in kayaks you can hit bottom.

 

 

 

Dave found a nice hat!

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We paddled through some shallow and crystal-clear water in the calm morning – about 2 miles south of Wabasso Causeway Bridge.  Stew said that this is what endears him to paddling.  It is neat to clearly see bottom and various fish – some were pretty big.

 

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We make it to Joe Earman Island Park and check it out.  Looked like a nice place to picnic but the available camping spots didn’t enthuse us much, especially when we knew there was a nice spot on an island only two miles away.  Camping here would be okay but it would have been a little cumbersome to get the kayaks out with only the two of us lifting and carrying them.  So we decide to head back north to spoil island IR 25 and we were glad we did.

 

Joe Earman Island Park

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IR 25 has a very nice camping area and a picnic table.  Having a table to put all out stuff on while unloading and loading our kayaks is nice.  It provides a place to sit and cook our dinners also.  We each brought camp chairs and they are a must when doing these trips.  You can just sit down and melt into your chair.

 

IR25 spoil island

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After setting up camp we explored some.  There is a dock on the island which we fished from for a while.  Trails go through parts of the island and it is well protected (as are all the spoil islands) with Australian pine trees.  The tree needles make for nice tent sites and fodder for our fires.

 

 

 

 

 

Tonight we make a good fire in a fire ring and enjoy a few beers while talking around the fire.  If you camp, you should make a fire at night – it adds so much to the experience – especially if it is chilly out.

 

 

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Break time

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Glassy waters

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Dock at IR25

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Nice campsite

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A fire!

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Green Flash (channel marker) at Sunrise IR25

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Break time

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Checking out IR9A south side

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View from campsite

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Our campsite

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We honored Jack by wearing his shirts

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Sunset IR9A

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Day 4 – 8.5 miles, Feb 28, 2024

 

Today our plan was to paddle to IR13 or IR14 but they didn’t look so good so we continued north to IR9A which we had scouted on our way the previous day. We thought it was IR10 until we opened Google Maps on our phone and saw our location as IR9A.

 

 

The morning was nice but we could see that it was already a little windy but not bad.  Dave took a bunch of photos trying to time the flash from a channel marker.  He finally got one.  Always wanted to see the “green flash” at sunset…

 

Sunrise IR25

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We took a little different route going back north.  We hugged the eastern side (we were on the west side yesterday) of the waterway and went under the tall section of 510, the Wabasso Causeway.  Uneventful paddle and we enjoyed paddling at a leisurely pace while taking in the sights.

 

 

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As we approached IR9A thinking it was IR10, we checked out the south end that had a picnic table and camping spots.  It looked nice but there was another spot with a picnic table and a little more shelter from the sun and wind on the middle western side of the island.  It is an excellent spot and we decide this may be where we spend the next few nights.

 

 

 

The island has walking paths so you can walk around the island – sometimes you may need to walk in the water.  Numerous places to camp and one area looked like it was used by a large group.

 

 

 

 

Walked around entire island

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As we walked, Dave found a frisbee-type disc and laughed.  He plays disc golf a lot and finds way too many discs – most are reunited with their owners.

 

 

Dave found a disc!

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Stew and Dave took advantage of a photo op and put on shirts we had saved from a memorial of our dear friend and fellow kayak team member, Jack Roberts who passed away some years ago.  This trip hit all the spots he took Dave and Sam on when he organized a four-day trip from Melbourne to Ft Pierce.  Stew couldn’t make that trip so we wanted to show him the route we took.

 

 

 

 

 

This island is awsome and a place you can easily spend a few nights.  We noted that it is only 1.5 miles to Captain Hiram’s resaurant and a short paddle to some breakfast places on the mainland.  We were tempted to paddle to Hiram’s for dinner but the wind had picked up and heck, we had brought food for camp dinners.

 

We fished a while – both caught a few fish and released.  Ladyfish, trout and jacks seemed prevalent as were many stingrays that feed in the shallows.  A big fire was made and we again enjoyed talking and relaxing around the fire but really enjoying being outdoors on an adventure trip.

 

Day 5 – 7 miles, Feb 29, 2024

 

 

Today Sam joins us.  Yay!  We loaded up and paddled to Sebastian Inlet Park passing an island with a not so shabby looking yacht abandoned on it.  I thought I could get it going without too much trouble!

 

 

Abandoned yacht

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At the park we met Sam – right on time at 9:30am.  He quickly packed up (he is amazing how fast he can pack) and we paddled across the Indian River which is 1.5 miles wide there and then 1 mile south to Captain Hiram’s Resort for a nice lunch. 

 

Yay!  Sam has joined us!

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Dave had brought pirate eye patches (he still had them from our very first trip in 2006).  So we all wore one as the young waitress asked us what we would like.  She didn’t notice the eye patches at first until we all started talking like pirates with “Arrrrr!” every other word.  She said it was too early…  She took pictures for us with our cell phones and was very nice.

 

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After lunch we paddle back to IR9A and once again set up camp.  It is sooo nice to have Sam with us.  We are a close team that look forward to spending time together.  The rest of the day we relax, fish, and drink some beer.  Still no luck fishing.

 

 

Sam helps, well, does all the work to make another great fire that we share and talk around until it was time to go to sleep.  A very nice day indeed.

 

 

 

 

Paddling to Sebastian Inlet State Park

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Arriving at Sebastian Inlet State Park

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1.5 miles to cross the Indian River then to Captain Hiram’s

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Our kayaks at Captain Hiram’s

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Arrrr!

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So good to see three kayaks at camp.

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Day 6 – 1 mile, Mar 1, 2024

 

We decided to have a down day and just relax and fish at our campsite.  We did paddle across to the shore (less than half a mile) and stowed our kayaks on a small sandy area at Riverview Park.  We weren’t too worried about leaving our kayaks since there seemed to be plenty of people walking in the park and most people are good.

 

 

 

We emerged from behind some bushes and got some stares.  We were in our camping kayak clothes that we had been wearing for over four days now and were carrying small dry bags with our wallets etc in them.  Kinda looked like homeless people I guess.

 

 

 

Looked like a neat small town and we walked about three blocks to Country Hen N Egg diner.  It is a very neat local spot with very good food.  Again we got some looks when we entered but we were promptly seated and well served.  We all enjoyed our meals.

 

 

 

Today is a down day so we took our time walking back to our kayaks and got in for our paddle back to camp.  There we lazed around, explored and fished.  A nice, relaxing day.

 

Sam

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That evening we all made our camp dinners and hung out around the fire before heading into our tents for the night.

 

 

 

Breakfast!

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Sam fishing

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Just hanging out, fishing, relaxing

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Day 7 – 8 miles Mar 2, 2024

 

 

 

Another fine morning as we paddled across the Indian River (Intracoastal) looking for Pelican Island National Wildlife Refuge.  Dave thought he had it memorized but once again, was wrong.  We did paddle up to the refuge but thought an island (Paul’s Island) was the target.  Oh well.  Sam was elated to catch (and release) a snook.  Stew and Dave had no luck.  Dave noticed that the end of his hook was gone.  That must explain why all his hits got away.  He changed the hook and bait but still no luck.  Later as we approached our campsite his line broke while trying to reel in a large ladyfish (we don’t like to catch ladyfish anyway).

 

A sunset over a body of water

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The wind started picking but not so bad. We were protected mostly as we were paddling in shallow water near land masses that stopped the wind.  The entire area looks real fishy and we know one could catch a lot here with the right bait.

 

 

 

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Again we saw lots of birds and passed a few islands that had dense populations.  One was full of pelicans that watched us closely as we glided by.

 

 

 

Large crowd of pelicans on this island

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We paddled back to our camp and decided to bug out a day early since it was forecast to rain tomorrow.  So we pack up and go for a celebratory lunch at Captain Hiram’s before heading back to Sebastian Inlet State Park.

 

 

Crossing the Indian River

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Packing up

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Conclusion:

 

This was another great trip with great friends.  Pretty easy logistics since we could leave our vehicles at the state park.  Check out the listed resources and do a trip in this area.  You can do it!  Even if just for a day or you can stay at a resort/hotel/rental for a few days and do day trips, explore the towns, and meet cool people as we did.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Glassy morning water

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Sunrise

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Sam catching a snook

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To Captain Hiram’s for farewell lunch

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Crossing to Sebastian Inlet State Park

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Resources:

 

As always, we used Google Earth to get GPS coordinates, scout the areas, and measure distances before our trip

 

Google Maps to look for outfitters, places to launch, places to park vehicles, etc

 

Google to search for info on the areas and get other published paddler’s advice/experience

 

Spoil Island Project (maps) from website:  Spoil Island Maps by County | SPOIL ISLAND PROJECT (fosifl.org)

 

Florida Circumnavigational Saltwater Paddling Trail:

Florida Circumnavigational Saltwater Paddling Trail Segments & Information | Florida Department of Environmental Protection

 

Sebastian Inlet State Park:  Sebastian Inlet State Park | Florida State Parks